tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7709017307374498723.post2069772018743036991..comments2023-12-19T05:18:50.502-05:00Comments on The Painting Corps: Friday Quick Tip: Grime Streaksgrey_deathhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03249453355399027291noreply@blogger.comBlogger2125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7709017307374498723.post-25883125524817992022010-01-30T12:08:23.557-05:002010-01-30T12:08:23.557-05:00Karitas, thanks for bringing up oils! I'm hop...Karitas, thanks for bringing up oils! I'm hoping to use the oils for more tutorials as I move forward with my weathering projects. The wash is sort of my 'in between' method as I move up in technical execution. The wash is fantastic for army scale projects though.grey_deathhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03249453355399027291noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7709017307374498723.post-23460212880874392732010-01-30T05:22:33.488-05:002010-01-30T05:22:33.488-05:00Nice.
The traditional way to ahcieve this effect ...Nice.<br /><br />The traditional way to ahcieve this effect on model kits is with oil paints.<br /><br />over a gloos surface (I airbrush Klear) you mix a wash of burnt umber and turpentine and allow it to flow around the bolts / panel lives.<br /><br />as it's oil based it remains wet for a long time, so any "overspill" on panel lines can be wiped uo with a q-tip and any streaking you want to do can be acheived cimply by using a large soft flat brush and pulling pigment down.<br /><br />I've also seen it done with powder pigments and turps to make a wash, but this is the first time with GW washes. kudos!<br /><br />I think the reason for the use of oil based pruducts is simply fear, as anyting you do can be easily corrected, and if you've spent a very long time on the paint, over-doing irrevocable weathering would be devestating, So I'd say if you intend to attempt weathering with GW washes, as Grey_Death says, take your time, go slow and try a test peice :)Karitashttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06811166981334472345noreply@blogger.com