Back to Basics: Assembling and Basing Dark Eldar Mandrakes

I've been working with a lot of plastic (and a little bit of resin) lately, so as a change of pace I decided to build and paint a box of Dark Eldar Mandrakes I've been sitting on for a while.  Here's a step-by-step of my process for getting these models on the table.

Ask the Corps: Primer Colors

Today it's time to take a look at one of those very subjective parts of the hobby, Primer Colors. Everyone has a different preference on the question of what color to base coat your models. So to start the conversation off, let's see the email that has sparked today's post!

Ryan Writes:

Thanks for all the tips and insights to painting miniatures. Your sight has significantly increased my skill. I do have a question: Which color of primer works best, white, black, or grey? I know that much of depends on your style but if you could give a pro/con of each that would be great! I did white when I first started painting and while it brightened my colors, it also showed my streak/paint lines (didn't know how to dry brush at the time). So then I went to black, which worked wonderfully but the colors for many of them were so dark that it's almost black! I had ultra blue look like very very dark purple and olive green be almost black. Now I did see the grey primer and I haven't tried it yet. So it may give me the best of both worlds. Thanks again for all that the corps have done!

Pros? Cons? Different ideas? Let's hear em!

And if you have a question you'd like to see us bring to the community here, hit us up at ThePaintingCorps@gmail.com!

From the Corps: Spray Nozzles

After some really great primer tips, we got this little beauty in our inbox. And after some mulling over, it's sparked a new segment here on TPC. This tip comes from Mr. Awesome, a newer reader with a great tip for all the corpsmen (and corpswomen!) out there.

He writes:

To The Painting Corps,

First off, great articles, I found your website today and I am loving it!

I do want to offer some tips on primers if I can...and its going to be a possible weird one.

But first, a bit of history about me...I am 27, and I used to do a lot of graffiti when I was younger, still do stencils and commission/fun stuff from time to time...but what I learned about paint/primers is its not just the paint mixture that's important. No that is hardly the case, its the pressure as well as the tip.

Yes the tips/nozzles/caps whatever you want to call it. That also helps regulate the flow of the paint/primer. One can take a high pressure primer, and slap a low pressure "fat cap" on it, and it will have a wide soft spray that even if you hold the cap down wont group together or run. OR you can do a really fine angled/directional high pressure cap on there and turn it into a monster of a can. For most model making I would recommend a low pro cap...Check out this site.

If you do want to try these caps out I recommend ordering this set , for all the different can types.

I hope this is of any help if you have any questions please feel free to write back to me.

Mr. Awesome.


After picking up a new can of GW spray, I noticed the change to the new fat caps with a lower pressure spray. So far, I'm really digging it, and I think it's about time I throw a few bucks into picking up a set of them for all of my cans and really see the difference. When I get around to it, expect to see an in depth review of the results.

A huge thanks to Mr. Awesome for this tip, and if you have a great tip you'd like to see us share with the community, submit it to ThePaintingCorps@gmail.com and we'll pick the best to share with your fellow Corpsmen.

Perfecting Primer Follow-up: Using ColorPlace (Walmart) Primer

To test my theory that you can get good results from any primer, I picked up a can of the ColorPlace (Walmart brand) Primer last night. The advantage of this stuff is the fairly universal availability in the US and rock-bottom price. After tax, the 10 oz can cost me $1.12. Make sure you get Primer, not paint. Check the back of the can until you find one with "Primer" on the label since at my store all of the grey paint and primer were mixed together on the shelf.



The label says to spray at 12"-16" away but from my own experience that is just way too far when using short, quick strokes. I sprayed at about 6" on a pretty windy and humid morning and the results were good. ColorPlace primer was not as smooth as some of the more expensive primers, but this was only my first attempt. I am sure better results can be had with some more experimentation and better weather conditions but I am satisfied with the results already. The grey shade is about the same grey as Tamiya Fine Surface primer, which is a lighter grey than GW plastic.

The can also says to spray a second coat within 4 hours, so I'd let is dry at least that long before painting but the models were dry to the touch within 10 minutes.



There was a large selection of spray paint at my local Walmart but they were out of the white ColorPlace primer. I talked breifly to the "paint guy" working the area and he said they now only make grey and white primer; no black. Your mileage may vary at your local Walmart, but I know that a lot of people really won't use anything but black primer.

Here's a quick video of the technique I used.



Got a can of primer you haven't had any luck with? Lemme know and I'll try to find a way to make it work.

Friday Quick Tip: Perfecting Primer

This isn't the first Friday Quick Tip about primer and it probably won't be the last. There's been some discussion on primer in our local community and it inspired me to post a few tips on fixing problems you are having with spray primer.

First, make sure you are starting with a primer, not a spray paint. Paint is not primer and there are some hobby primers out there that are pretty inexpensive. No reason to use the wrong tool for the job.

Once you've got a proper primer, pretty much any spray primer can give you good results as long as you use it properly and in the right conditions. The expensive spray primers are a lot more forgiving than the cheap ones, but if you know how to use the particular brand (or don't mind diagnosing the problem and fixing your technique) then you can get good results with any hobby primer.

Before we start looking at some pictures, let's consider the anatomy of the spray can. The nozzle is connected to a tube that runs down to the bottom of the can. That's where the paint and solvent are located (with a little propellant mixed in) and the rest of the can is taken up by propellant. When you turn the can and spray upside down to clear the nozzle, you're blowing propellant out. A lot of times the propellant is also a solvent, so keep that in mind when working with the can sideways to reach into those tight areas.

When you shake the can you don't need to go nuts, since you're just mixing the solvent and paint that may have separated. If you shake too much you'll agitate more propellant into the solvent/paint mix and you'll get a sputtering nozzle when you spray, which usually means splatter and an uneven coat. I never shake any primer more than ten seconds, even the Armory primer that people tell me really needs to be shaken well. But be sure to shake a little as you go along, especially if you are spraying a large batch of models.

So now you're spraying your models and things are not coming out right. Here are a few common problems and how to fix them.



Oops, you didn't shake the can enough. With some primers this is really hard to do-- the model above was sprayed after not shaking the can at all, but some primers need a little more agitation. If you see shiny streaks on your first few models, but not the rest, then shake the can more. The tell tale signs of extra solvent in the mix are the shiny spots that look like they've been hit by an ink wash. You might also see some bubbling or blistering and an inconsistent coat. The paint and solvent isn't mixed enough and you're not getting a layer of primer that will stick well to the model. This problem often shows up if you are batch priming and have let the spray can sit too long between shaking.



Darn, too far away. Whenever you see this rough coat and feel a flaky, powdery texture you are holding the can too far away from the model. The problem is that different brands of spray paint like different distances. I've found that the Armory spray works best in close, probably 4"-6", and the Citadel spray likes to be a little but further away, maybe 8"-12". If you are seeing this nasty texture but spraying at your normal distance it could be a lack of humidity. If you switch brands of spray also be sure to do a few tests to make sure you are familiar with the ideal spray distance of the new brand. Either way, when you see results like above, move closer.



Ah, the model of the impatient sprayer. Caking and cracking usually mean that you are either too close or moving too slowly. Spray in short puffs, keeping the can moving and remember what they say about several light coats being better. Yeah, they aren't just saying it to take up more of your time. Sometimes you can see cracking or bubbling from over-shaking a can and getting too much propellant mixed into the can. If you suspect over-shaking, just put the can down for at least 5 minutes.

Every primer can give you good results if you take the time to figure it out. Just pick a primer that fits your budget, patience level or one that is available at your local store. You'll probably ruin a few models along the way but remember that priming is like any other painting skill: the more you work at it the better you get. Getting the priming done right will take practice but if you get good results it makes the rest of the painting job that much easier.

And besides, that cracked and detail-obscured Ork will make a great statue once you paint it with a stone effect.

Ok, let's see 'em: hit us with some links or stories of your worst priming disasters!

Friday Quick Tip: Priming with Gesso

I love Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Not only does it prime well, but it has a great grey color that I love to paint over. I've found the grey helps me see the model details and shadows better than black or white. The one thing I don't love about it is the price. That, and the rest of the hassle of spray priming.

So when I read about priming with gesso I figured it was time to give it a try. My local art store even had a nice shade of grey that was just a hair browner than the neutral Tamiya grey I love. Plus it was cold and rainy outside, so it was a perfect time to try out a spray primer alternative.


Yup, under $4. And that's probably enough gesso to prime a dozen Space Marine Chapters or Eldar Craftworlds and maybe even enough for an Ork army.

Here's our favorite Librarian, ready for a prime:


After reading WeeToySoldiers, I was careful not to glob it on too thick. Even as "miraculous" as gesso is supposed to be, I didn't want to have to strip it all off if it obscured some details. Here is the first coat when wet:

And when dried:

You can see it is a little splotchy with bad coverage in some areas (bottom of the robe, toes and wrist). Reading the comments on the gesso posts I've found that there is a big difference between the white and black gesso. It seems that you get much better coverage with the black. Not surprisingly the grey is probably in-between. To get good coverage you need two thin coats. With the black, one coat is enough. With the white liquid gesso, you might need multiple coats.

I also did a quick prime of one thicker coat on some plastic Scouts. The thicker coat covers better, but obscured a little of the fine detail. If you are doing a big horde of Orks, one thicker coat will be fine.

And not all gesso is created equal. The stuff I got was fairly liquid, about the consistency of syrup. The gesso in this tutorial looks to be quite thick, almost like paste. I am sure that any type will work well, but you'll need to get it to the right consistency first.

So the bottom line on gesso: it is a good alternative for black primer for single or small batches of models. But like anything else regarding painting, it takes some practice to get used to. Believe it or not, priming is a painting skill just like any other: the more you do it the better you get at it. So get out there and get priming! (That's one step closer to being fully painted.)

Have you tried gesso? What color did you use and what were your results?