20100131

Field Report: Tyranids Old School Style


Tinweasel brings back the Old School with a great Genestealer Patriarch. Some good recipe info there too. Head over and check it out.

Expect more quick redirects in the future akin to our Facebook linking. Got a great link you'd like to see put up? Send it to us at ThePaintingCorps@gmail.com. Just be sure it has something a bit more useful than a pretty picture! It's all about learning folks!

20100129

Friday Quick Tip: Grime Streaks


With one of my latest projects, I've come to realize that I haven't gone over this very simple, yet very effective little bit of weathering, grime streaks. I have been making good use of them for a long time now, hearkening back to the pre-GW wash days. Luckily, with the advent of the wash in a pot, the process is much simpler, and in my view, better looking.


For the sake of this step by step tutorial, I've used the tank from the masked white wash tip. You'll also need a sharp tipped brush with a nice sized belly to allow for continuous painting. I used a standard round brush in this instance. You'll also need a pot of Gryphonne Sepia. You might find a different color more acceptable for your scheme though, so don't be afraid to think outside of what's presented in this tut. Any color would be acceptable so long as you feel it fits to the desired effect.


When starting, look for spots that would have rust marks or water streaks. I stick mostly to rivets, armor joins and battle damage for much of my grime. But feel free to explore a variety of locations. Keep in mind any place that water could accumulate or run over. These spots will make the model come alive with use, wear and tear.


Here you can see a single rivet with one quick layer of grime streaking down. I go lightly for any first layer. You always want to be sure that your brush isn't overburdened with wash, so be sure to test your brush on a paper towel or palette to keep from blobbing the wash on the model.


Your first layer is key so take your time, and place your brush strokes where you want them. Just don't be too afraid of messing up! This is weathering! It's supposed to get a little bit messy! You can see that the lines all go (roughly) vertical, starting from a rivet or join of some sort. If you happen to paint some battle damage onto the model as well, be sure to use those spots as starting points as well.


In this final photo you can see what another coat of wash will give you in terms of effect. Keep in mind that any successive layers of wash will be FAR heavier than the first application. It's up to your eye to decided whether or not another layer is necessary or not. I also highly recommend giving this technique a go on a test piece, maybe just a scrap armor plate from your bits box. It will save you much more time using that piece instead of messing up on a near finished model and having to correct your mistakes!

There are a lot of different ways you can go about this effect. This just happens to be one of the easier ways I've found so far with very little time and effort being invested for a very satisfying result! If you've got another method, we'd love to hear about it! Leave a comment or shoot us an email at ThePaintingCorps@gmail.com!

20100122

Friday Quick Tip: Intro to Airbrushing


Today's Friday Quick Tip is on a topic that has been popular around The Painting Corps lately: airbrushing.

Here LBrusley of AwesomePaintJob.com gives us a quick overview of his airbrush materials, techniques and a few other hobby tidbits.



Get out there this weekend and start airbrushing!

20100120

Ask the Corps: Arctic Highlighting


Somehow this slipped through the cracks a few months back. After digging back through TPC's email, I found it again. With our recent post of the Tank Whitewash tip, I thought it a good time to bring up another winter related post here in Ask the Corps.

Dane writes:

Greetings oh ye Gods of painting,
I stumbled on this site though the wet blending video on youtube and I cannot thank you guys (and gals) for the work that goes into everything. The Painting Corps is a truly invaluable resource for all hobbyists (especially those who's standards FAR exceed their abilities...like me ^_^)


So here is my problem. I am attempting to paint an arctic/winter/snow world army and after several attempts, Ive washed and scrubbed the same squad ten times now, I feel I have finally found a decent paint method that yields acceptable results.

-Prime with Armoury White Spray
-Basecoat with 1:1 mix of Astronomican Grey/Skull white
-Wash with 3:1 mix of Badaab Black Wash/Astronomican Grey
-Several Drybrushings of Skull white
-Freehand camo composed of 2:1 Codex Grey/Chaos Black

The entire process yields a decently crisp white with greyish black shadows. The issue is, as Ive learned is the case with most heavily drybrushed minis, the skull white comes out very "chalky" and takes away from the entire model. I have been told by hobbyists at my local gaming store that this color scheme is likely one of the hardest to pull off correctly and I should try something else. So I have. I have tried around fifteen totally different schemes and while they look ok for one of my skill; they aren't what I want and I never had the satisfaction of completing something challenging. So, I turn to the masters for advice. Is there anything; any trick or technique or product I am missing out on? Or will this be a case of keep trying until I have the experience to pull it off? Thanks in advance for any advice/help you can offer. Again, fantastic website.

I know there are folks out there with a lot more experience in painting your winter themed models. If you've got a nugget of insight, let's hear it!

20100115

Friday Quick Tip: Tool Time

I love hobby tools almost as much as the hobby itself. And while I love my local game store, the few things I'll shop around for are tools. Mainly because I love my favorite local tool store and never visit without finding something wonderful. Here's the result of my latest shopping trip.



I've been looking for that wheeled punch for a long time. Now I can create rivets from 2mm to 4.5mm with ease. If you are looking for such a tool, look at tools for working with leather. This third hand was just handy and I needed an extra knife (or three!), and this one was a bargain. Speaking of bargains, all three of the above cost me $11.

I also found a tool to solve another problem. For a while I've lamented my 15W foam cutter. Even though it is a great design, it just didn't have the muscle when I had to tackle a large project (like the radio tower I did for BoLSCon-- carving a cubic foot of foam).

Well now I've found a foam cutting "sledgehammer" for when I need it:



Not only does it have adjustable temperature (for more power when you need it), but it will heat up to 840 degrees F. This baby will cut insulating concrete forms, nylon rope and probably half the furniture made by IKEA. Anyone need to hack up a Baneblade?

And let me be the first to say, in tone of the recently popularized video: "My 130W foam cutter is the greatest power for evil!"

What hobby bargains have you found out there? And what are some of your favorite tools?